El Hidalguense

Before returning to Mexico City, I knew that I wanted some distinctly regional Mexican food soon after arrival. What better place than El Hidalguense, in Colonia Roma Sur, not far west of the Mercado Medellín, at Calle Campeche #155?

It was only recently that I'd seen a passing mention of it on Chowhound.com's Mexico Forum. Then some Googling turned up a few more references to it, notably a glowing article in El Economista. That, plus a very positive response in an email from our friend, "Mija" Lesley Tellez was enough to convince me to eat there.

We made plans to meet friends and have a late breakfast there. It was a short walk from their house.

I was expecting a drab hole-in-the wall, but what I found was an attractive restaurant with two levels of dining rooms, and perky waitresses clad in "Scottish" uniforms. There are some attractive displays of food along a long counter.

Dining room

Aguas frescas

The menu runs to three glossy panels, but the centerpiece is barbacoa de carnero (young lamb). For the more adventurous there are some intriguing items not on the carta of your favorite Restaurante VIP's. Chinicuiles (gusanos de chile), escamoles (ant eggs), criadillas ("lamb's fries" or to speak plainly, testicles.); pancita roja o blanca (lamb's innards seasoned variously and stuffed into a paunch. More variants on the montalayo theme.)
We stayed firmly in the non-innards part of the menu. Sr. Paco and I started with bowls of rich consomé de barbacoa. It was perhaps the best I've  had anywhere. He and I split a 1/4 kilo of barbacoa. It was tasty but somewhat fatty. The presentation was very attractively rustic.

The charred penca de maguey holds the barbacoa

Señora Luz María had a Mixiote de Pollo, (highly seasoned chicken wrapped in parchment and baked.) and she offered me a taste of the sauce. It was sabrosa pero o, picante!

Mixiote de pollo

I had a Mixiote de Setas (they spell setas with a "Z" but I won't.)
This was a wonderful, balanced dish without being excessively picante.

That reminds me to mention the three wonderful salsas. I tried the rich, smoky dark one and the verde. I enjoyed them both. I think the salsa amarilla is the most picante.

Sra. Cuevas was avoiding spices, and had a Plato Hidalguense. This was queso panela, avocado, tomato slices, a beautiful ensalada de nopales, accompanied by branches of papaloquelite.

All was accompanied by excellent tortillas de maíz azul hechas a mano.

El Hidalguense is definitely worth further visits in order to try its regional specialties.

There's a story behind how all the hard work is done, and it's explained in the El Economista article. (In Spanish.)

Owner, Moíses

RATINGS

Food: ****1/2


Service: **** 1/2


Price: $-$$ (Our average was $131 pesos per person, and that included  2 cervezas, 1 agua mineral, a pulque curado con tunas-click for picture, 2 cafes de olla, and the tip. Your cuenta may vary, especially if you order escamoles or chinicuiles.)

Noise level: moderately loud.

Rest Rooms: we didn't use the facilities.

HOURS: (pay careful attention!) Only Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. Open major holidays.

Tel: 55 640538
Cel: (045) 775 752 5606

Map:


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