Showing posts with label Pátzcuaro. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pátzcuaro. Show all posts

Thursday, June 21, 2012

Misíon Imposible

A few years back, the R.O.M.E.O. men's breakfast group met at the restaurant of the then Hotel San Felipe in Pátzcuaro. It would be kind to say that the spacious parking and the seating arrangement were the highlights of that breakfast.

Patio and parking
Since then, the Hotel San Felipe changed ownership to the extensive Hotel Misíon chain. It was renamed the Hotel Misíon Pátzcuaro. Last week, our friends Mark and Nancy dined with a group of friends at the restaurant, still named Restaurante San Felipe, and were so pleased that they suggested we join them there for a comida.

At 3:00 p.m. Wednesday, we six were the only diners in the warmly appointed dining room. We were attended quite competently by two white jacketed waiters. The menu is not lengthy, but is more than adequate. They brought us some complimentary totopos y frijoles.


The menu is a bit confusing in that there are listings for both botanas and for antojitos. Some of the same items appear under different categories but with varying prices. In the case of the intriguing Chile Pasilla item, our waiter explained that the one listed in botanas was a sort of build your own taco appetizer, while the antojito version is a type of chile relleno. We ordered the botana version and an order of guacamole to share.

The guacamole was fine, and the chile pasilla botana was novel and nifty. It comes as sort of a kit, comprised of a fried, opened dried chile, strips of queso fresco, crema, chopped cilantro, cebolla y chile perón. We were supplied with baskets of warm, thickish handmade tortillas with which to assemble our tacos. The dish was fun to eat, but the sum of its flavor was o.k., but not equal to the appeal of the DIY parts.

Chile Pasilla botana
On the other hand, the two salsas de la casa, roja y verde, were stellar. The tomatoes and milder chiles of the red had been carefully roasted, while the green was just the right heat, tartness, but above all, chopped in substantial chunks rather than the anemic, watery purees so often served elsewhere.


 

The weather was cool and rainy, so soup was a logical choice for at least three of us. Two chose Crema Tangaxhuan, a creamy corn chowder laced with bacon and topped by small crackers or croutons.


Crema Tangaxhuan
I chose Sopa Tarasca, a Michoacán specialty, a soup often abused and disrespected. (There are at least two schools of Sopa Tarasca; with bean puree and without.) The version at San Felipe could hold its own in the upper ranks of contenders. It was vivid with tomato-chile broth, thick with tortilla strips, laced with crema y queso and strips of chile pasilla, but without beans. It was substantial and enjoyable.


Sopa Tarasca

With the platos fuertes, I think the quality declined. Mark had a Filete de Res con Champiñones a la Mostaza, of which only he can give an opinion. He invited me to taste the sauce, but I did not think that the yellow mustard in a cream sauce was a felicitous combination.

Filete de res con champiñones a la mostaza
Ron had a simple Filete de Res a la Parrilla. I didn't get his opinion on this yet.

Both Georgia and I both had Chuletas Adobadas. Mine, at least was overcooked; a bit thin and dry, but redeemed somewhat by the pretty good adobo. 

Chuletas Adobadas
Note that the chuletas and Ron's platter came with frijoles but Mark's did not. There were no vegetable sides, as far as we could tell, even though fresh vegetables were present in the salads.

Nancy and Sra. Cuevas both had Ensaladas Mixtas, which combined fresh and cooked vegetables and some ham and cheese. The salads were attractive, and cruets of vinegar and oil were welcome to mix your dressing to taste.

Ensalada Mixta: goodbye, cruet whirl

Desserts:
Ron and I both ordered flan, which was poorly made. I have never had dense, chewy flan before. The caramel tasted like a syrup made from piloncillo. 


This dessert did not pass with flan colors
Nancy and Sra. Cuevas had Crepas a la Naranja, attractive and the orange sauce was good. Crepes would never be among my first dessert choices, but of course, tastes differ.

Crepas a la Naranja
 And now, the envelope, please!


Food: ***1/2
Service: *****
Ambience: ****
Price: $$+ (per person, complete meal. See menu pictures for details)
Restrooms: Clean and attractive.
Parking: spacious and free.

Location: Hotel Misión Pátzcuaro
Av. Lázaro Cárdenas No. 321
C.P. 61600, Centro
Pátzcuaro, Michoacán, México


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Saturday, December 08, 2007

Confessions of a 79% Coffee Addict



The terrible truth is that I am a coffee addict. I recently had my suspicions confirmed when I took and online quiz. (See below) My years I'd worked the graveyard shift as a baker had taken their toll.

Now, it's one thing to be a coffee maven, but it's a terrible thing to lose your mind to caffeine.
The signs become clearer when, instead of grinding selected Chiapas beans, you start drinking Nescafé Clásico. Not for nothing is it referred to as "No es café". That stuff used to taste like the condensations of a Mexico City bus' exhaust. Now, it doesn't...taste...so..bad.
I don't drink it for the taste but for the kick-start to my day.

After one mug, I now switch to decaf. Do any of you coffee snobs know that there's a decent decaf with the Clásico label? I'll bet not.
We were introduced to this at the Restaurant del Arcángel, near Tzurumútaro. They have an espresso machine, but at 9:30 in the morning, the only coffee available was Clásico Descafeinado and a tea kettle of boiling water.

Accept no substitutes. Folger's Instant Decaf tastes bad. Very bad.

Real coffee, good coffee, is available for you mavens who scorn instant.
You can hardly get around Pátzcuaro's Centro without bumping into a cafetería. I might go so far as to say that Pátzcuaro Centro is two plazas defined by coffeehouses.

The sight of the Hygeia ice cream cartons of the Palomares coffeehouse fills me with nostalgia, but my Mundo de Café Centro revolves around the La Surtidora, on the Plaza Grande; or at the Gran Hotel, on the Plaza Chica. Those are favorite gringo aggregation social loci.

When I'm on my own, I sometimes get a café cortado at Lilian's Coffee, a tiny place niched into the Hotel Los Escudos, which has its own coffee shop. (We drank there once. Once only.) Lilian's is excellent, maybe a bit over priced, although the coffee is served in a paper cup. They also sell whole bean and ground coffee, but it's prepackaged, I think. I also like having choices of different types of beans, even though I almost always buy the same kind.

La Surtidora has the advantage that you can buy a variety of beans. (They also sell puros (cigars), both marcas nacionales y Habanos. However, that's another story for another day. One bad habit is enough for now. La Surtidora serves a deep cup. It's good, with the occasional trace of grounds to remind you that it's the real stuff.

If you are in Uruapan or Quiroga, you can buy excellent coffee at Café Tradicional Uruapan. The coffee at Café La Lucha is ok, but to me, it lacks that deep roasted flavor I prefer. Their drinking chocolate tablets are very good. Buy some to take home. The aroma alone is heavenly.

In Morelia, Café Europa has very good coffee. (Just not at their Wal-Mart Super Center outlet.)
There are several branches. There's a big café on Avenida Madero, but I haven't tried it. We usually bought coffee beans at a small Europa outlet on Humboldt, near the Casa de las Artesanías. (I haven't been there recently, so I'm not sure it's there.) Another café with food is the Europa on Avenida Enrique Ramírez, just beyond the Superama. They have especially nice service there.

Take The Coffee Addiction Test.

Wednesday, February 28, 2007

Retired Older North American Men That Do Breakfast; At Las Cuevas

Even before we'd arrived in the Pátzcuaro area in late September, 2005, I'd read of the "R.O.M.E.O.s.", an informal group of retired men that met at a local restaurant every Tuesday morning for "networking" and breakfast. ("R.O.M.E.O.s." stands for "Retired Old Men That Eat Out".)

The homebase of the group is the Restaurant Cha Cha Cha, where co-owner Rick Davis serves the group a notable breakfast, buffet style. On alternate Tuesdays, the group meets at a different restaurant. This is usually a good plan, as it allows for some variety and change, but it is not without its risks. A few months ago, we met at a place popular for its lunches, but it turned out to be undesirable for both the food and the "networking ambience." I will not name it here.

Afterwards, I thought, "With a little help, I can do this far better myself." Some time passed, but Ricardo Lo Giudice, the informal "Jefe" of the group. was enthusiastic. We made our plans for Tuesday, February 27, 2007.
Here are some preliminary comments that I made on the Lonelyplanet.com Thorn Tree, Get Stuffed Branch:

This is the menu in general, and it's now set, except for small additions such as freshly squeezed orange juice.

menu:
Southern Style Meets Mexican Style


Cinnamon rolls
Angel Buttermilk Biscuits
Milk Gravy with homemade breakfast sausage
Scrambled eggs estilo N.O.t.B. with choice of red or green salsas
Real Southern Grits
Oven Roasted Potatoes
Thick-sliced, hickory smoked Wright's Bacon
Ambrosia Tropical Fruit Bowl
Real butter, jams and jellies.
Fried Apples, maybe...
Coffee 'Marat' of Coatepec, Veracruz
Freshly Squeezed Orange Juice


I will have our neighbors and Mrs. Anon (Susan) to help me. The preparation already began last week, when I bought 3 kilos of custom-ground pork at a local carnicería, seasoning it back in my kitchen with my Secret Blend of Herbs and Spices. (So secret, that I can't remember what they were. It's safer that way.)
I bought 10 dozen eggs. Do you think that will be enough? (I just calculated, based on 3 eggs each, plus those I need for baking, and I know I should buy more.)
Today I'll buy the potatoes, the fruits and any last minute stuff.

I'm also making 3-4 loaves of Oatmeal 3-Seed Bread, just to have it on hand.*
I'm hoping that one of our neighbors can take pictures during the event, between squeezing oranges, cutting up fruit, and making coffee. We will be serving buffet style, on better quality disposable "china", etc. The tables are already set up in our semi-outdoor entryway/"porch".

*The bread went unused.

All you care to eat, $70 Mexican Pesos.

Now it's Thursday, and the event is past. We are still eating and putting away leftovers. Looking back, it was a tremendous success. All the attendees were appreciative and they stayed longer than usual, schmoozing over their coffee, tea or juice.


The last hours were crucial to the operations. I arose at 12:30 a.m, made a pot of coffee, and was at work by 1:00 a.m, mixing 2 batches of cinnamon rolls, turning sausage and bacon drippings (sausage had been cooked the day before) into a huge Le Creuset pot of milk gravy
and cutting up and seasoning parboiled potatoes, for chipotle, orégano and cumin seasoned oven roasted potatoes with onions.
The Angel Biscuits had been mixed and stored as a dry mix two days before, then moistened with buttermilk the previous day, to be stored in plastic bags in the fridge, slowly maturing to tangy goodness. The day before I'd made two salsas, a coarse green salsa of tomatillos and a more finely textured red salsa, both of oven roasted fresh vegetables. In an insane moment on Tuesday morning, I'd also made a chunky salsa fresca of fresh tomatoes, chiles, diced avocadoes and radishes, seasoned with lime and orange juices. (We are still trying to consume that, as the texture becomes less crisp and much less attractive. The salsa roja and the salsa verde will keep longer, but need to be frozen for future enjoyment.)

Wright's Hickory Smoked Thick Slice Bacon, our favorite store bought brand, was panned up on parchment paper covering baker's half sheet pans. That was slowly cooked in the oven, two sheets at a time to "almost done", then removed to a paper towel lined deep quarter "hotel pan". Four dozen eggs were cracked, two at a time, beaten with a whisk, and poured into a half gallon plastic Rubber Maid bottle then refrigerated.

About 8 apples were cored and sliced, and placed in a bowl of acidulated water. Later, they'd be slowly fried in butter, sprinkled with light brown sugar and a squirt of lime juice.
(There is more, but I fear that it may become tedious to list everything.)

At 7:45, Geni and Larry arrived, bringing chairs, a beautiful bowl of Tropical Ambrosia (bananas, oranges, mangos, pineapple, Maraschino cherries, and topped with pecans and toasted coconut), PLUS, a half gallon of freshly squeezed OJ.

The staffers squeezed in a quick breakfast at about 8:45, and the crew was motivated in part by the thoughts of the Sangrita Marías that awaited us when we cleaned up afterwards.

Butter was put into ramekins, the paper Chinet plates were set out alongside the plastic tableware, jams and jellies, honey and napkins, salt and peper, all the salsas were on the dining tables or the sideboard.

The first guests arrived at 9:10. We encouraged them to have coffee and a cinnamon roll. I had the biscuits rolled out and panned on the half sheets, taking the place of the bacon.
Into the oven. Poof! They started rising magnificently within a moment. (Photo "lifted" from an unknown Web source.)









I got busy cooking scrambled eggs in two non stick skillets. This was actually the least time consuming and challenging part of the operations. I lagged behind two or three minutes, but once caught up, everyone was served.



I went out to the chowhounds during a lull, and proposed a toast: "To Mel O'Hara—who first showed us this beautiful place. Here's to you, Mel!"

The cooking dwindled to a stop, but the work continued. We were putting away surpluses and cleaning pans and utensils. The group stayed on, and I went out and sold them home made cookies (peanut butter, chocolate chip and oatmeal raisin) as a charity fund raiser, I also decided to sell off what I could of surplus cinnamon rolls for the same community causes."

At 11:00 o'clock, the last guest had left. We continued cleaning and putting away. Then I made a pitcher of Sangrita Marías. Here's the recipe:

For four hearty kitchen staffers:
Three, well chilled, 12-oz cans of Mexican V-8 Juice
Juice of 6 small Mexican or Key limes
1 cup of Tequila, nearly frozen in the freezer
Salsa picante, such as Salsa Tampico, Valentina, Búfalo or Tabasco, to taste
Lea & Perrins Worcestershire Sauce, to taste
A dash or two of Pickapeppa Sauce (optional)
Salt, or as here, Chipotle Salt, made by finely grinding a stemmed, but not seeded dried chipotle chile with a tablespoon of coarse sea salt, to taste.
Ice cubes. Strain into glasses, drink.
¡Salud!
Below, the Chef in his cups.










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