Restaurante Carácuaro

Restaurante Carácuaro (Web photo)

It has been a couple of years since we spotted the Restaurante Carácuaro from our Mexico City bound bus. I was intrigued by the yellow, tile roofed building on the western periférico highway of Morelia. There's another restaurant of the same name and family, on Calzada La Huerta, at la salida a Pátzcuaro, just before the overpass bridges.

We passed the restaurant during several more bus trips, and some Web research yielded sparse results. All we knew was that it featured La Comida De La Tierra Caliente. A comparison with the venerable Fonda Marceva in Morelia Centro is inevitable.

It wasn't until last Thursday, September 22, that we joined our friends Peter and Tere for comida at the Carácuaro.

The dining rooms are somewhat "downmarket" but not unattractive. We chose to go up to the mezzanine dining area to escape the street noise coming into the screened windows as well as the tv blaring near the bar.

Main dining room

Our pretty waitress, dressed in flowing white traje with color accents brought us botanas of salsa, totopos, (tortilla chips), requesón cheese (similar to ricotta) and crema. Of the two salsas, one was muy picante, the other less so. Both were good. This was a nice touch, and a highlight of the meal.

Botanas

We were then brought some toqueras, roughly milled, fresh corn pancake. I'd left the table to go wash my hands, and when I returned to my toquera, it had cooled and toughened. Still, it was good with some salsa and crema on top.

Toquera

Contrary to the usual form, our waitress did not take or drink orders until some time had passed. When she did, Tere and Doña Cuevas shared a half pitcher of naranjada, Peter had a michelada preparada con Clamato; and I a very nice mezcal accompanied by slices of orange sprinkled with coarse salt, plus a bottle of agua mineral. Peter commented that the michelada preparation came with the cerveza alongside; a nice touch, I think.

Michelada

Mezcal

Who could pass up an appetizer with the name "Chavindecas"? Not I. It consists of two soft tortillas with your choice of bistec, pollo or chorizo, moistened with thinned crema and covered in a chopped salad of lettuce, tomato, onion, I think, and avocado plus crumbled queso fresco. Overall, not bad, but the sum of the parts was underwhelming. It may be a relative of the Sonoran-Arizonan "chivichanga" or "chimichanga". The latter are fried burritos heaped with salad, guacamole and sour cream. I couldn't finish my chavindeca, mostly out of boredom. I wanted room for what was to follow.

Chavindeca

Peter and Tere shared an impressive order of uchepos. Unlike those at El Gorjeo and La Mesa de Blanca in Ziracuaretiro, these were more salty than sweet. They were smothered in crema and queso Cotija. (I may be wrong about the type of cheese.)

Uchepos

On to our platos fuertes, Tere went all out and selected a Pechuga Empanizada Rellena de queso, jamón, chorizo y camarones. It was even richer than anticipated. It's the over the top Carácuaro interpretation of Chicken Cordon Bleu.

Pechuga Rellena

Peter tried the aporreadillo, a traditional dish of la Tierra Caliente of shredded dried beef, scrambled eggs and a picante salsa. He reported that it wasn't his favorite version, for the reason, among others, that the salsa was too soupy.

Doña Cuevas had Mole de Pollo. Oddly, only thighs and legs were available. The mole was good, but not outstanding. It came with a side of the most peculiar corundas we'd ever seen. They were flat and wrapped in banana leaves. Unfortunately, the masa was dense, salty and completely unappealing.

I wanted to compare the Frito de Puerco with that I'd had at Fonda Marceva. In either case, it's a lusty sort of dish of fried pieces of pork, some with bone, in a picante, brick-red sauce. This was better than anything else I tried, yet the version served at Fonda Marceva had more complexity, and above all, less grease. The accompanying rice was dreadful, mushy and overcooked. I think it was a reheated leftover. The frijoles were just "o.k.".

Frito de Puerco

We were served one large pretty good tortilla each with our meal. That sounds meagre, but it was really quite enough, although we were offered more, late in the meal.

Afterwards, Tere and Peter shared a small portion of flan that looked pretty good. I had a cafe de olla that was richly brewed. It was a a good dessert.

Our earnest and sincere waitress did a good job, but her service was unpolished.

Here's the score, from my point of view.

RATINGS

Food: ***


Service: ***1/2


Price: $-$$ Our bill was $536 pesos, before tip. Inexpensive.

Ambience: Eclectic clutter. Noisy. Less so upstairs.

Rest rooms: Downstairs men's room needed attention, but was tolerable. Upstairs ladies' room lacked drain pipe from hand sink to main drain.

Would I go again? Maybe, to try the Mole de Olla, (weekends only), the uchepos, and a few other items.

There's also a mariscos menu, something I would not be tempted to order, and a breakfasty menu of chlaquiles, huevos and the usual.


Periférico Independencia No. 3067 Fracc. Mariano Michelena Morelia, Mich.


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Live Music Advisory: there was a small group preparing to perform as we were leaving at around 3:00 p.m.

A forum discussion of Restaurante Caracuaro can be found here.

Gloria to the Quesadilla and Tlacoyo!

Tlacoyos

(Part of the series, "Six Nights in Colonia Roma Norte, México, DF )

There is a concentration of street food stalls not far from our Hotel Embassy. Cross the northernmost block of Calle Orizaba, across from the side of la Parroquia de La Sagrada Familia, and Calle Puebla becomes Street Food Row. There's a lesser smattering on Calle Orizaba north to Avenida Chapultepec, La Frontera de La Zona Rosa.

On the corner of C/ Puebla and C/ Orizaba, there's a sandwich stand featuring deep fried tamales, a concept which simultaneously fascinates and repels me. It's at the front door of the upscale seafood restaurant, Estampa Del Mar, where you can get a coctel de camarones for, if I recall correctly, $115 or maybe $117 pesos. I suspect that it's not my kind of place.

Fried tamales-the breakfast of Chilangos

I haven't tried the fried tamales, of course, out of  dietary concerns, and we were usually on our way to Cafe Toscano, at the south end of the block.

The Serious Street Food Row is along C/ Puebla, for two or more blocks, toward Avenida Insurgentes.

Take, for example, this stand for carnivores. Look at those  free salsas and condiments and garnishes.
(Unfortunately, we never got to eat there.)

A solitary Sopa de Gallina stand was very appealing. I'd hoped to eat there, but fate played its cards against me. A large bowl with a 1/4 breast/pechuga starts the price list at $30 pesos, and a variety of chicken parts, your choice, goes on from there. I'm fairly certain they also offered huacál, the egg case of the hen, a treat for the adventurous to eat the delicate unborn eggs in their soup.

We did have a chance to try the glorious tlacoyos and see the quesadillas and gorditas at the prime location of Sra, Gloria's post, right close to the northwest corner of C/ Puebla and C/ Orizaba.

Sra. Gloria comes each work day from Chalma, a 2-3 hour trip, depending on traffic. If I have it right, she works the end of the week but not on Sundays. She was generous to permit us to photograph and video her dexterous and able moves.

Click slideshow for larger versions of pics and a short video.

We watched, fascinated, as she handled a flurry of customer requests, patting out masa de maíz azúl, putting in the filling of choice, and deftly forming the tlacoyo by hand. I should define tlacoyo as an antojito of masa de maíz, with a filling such as requesón (ricotta like cheese), or the delicious but heavy mashed papas y habas (potato and fava beans. Sorry, no Chianti was on hand.

But that's not all that you get for your $12 pesos: you can choose toppings such as quelites, wild and cultivated greens, or huitlacoche, the (in)famous black corn fungus, queso fresco, and a choice of several salsas picantes. This is not necesarily comida rápida, although Sra. Gloria works with a young assistant. Your order may take 5 minutes, depending on its complexity but especially of the the line of customers ahead of you.

She told us that she made all her ingredients, even going so far as to nixtamalize maíz azúl seco, (dried blue corn) cook and rinse it, and grind it for her masa.

Although I hate to admit this, this was the only street food we had while in Colonia Roma Norte on this visit. I shall do better next time. It was near the top of my list of "Best Food of The Trip".

Ratings


Food: ****1/2
Service: With a smile and a story ****1/2
Price: 1/2$ Super bargain!
Ambience: urban street, shade tarp and trees. Maybe be a couple of seats, but doubtful.
Hygiene: Good
Rest Rooms: no hay. Nada.
Open Saturday, for sure. Not Sunday nor, as far as we could see, Moday. Other days uncertain. If someone goes there, please let us know.

Would we return? Definitely!

Street View location below. Gloria's stand in the shade of trees, across from the church.

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Six Days In Colonia Roma Norte, México, DF Part 3

"He Who Dances Must Pay The Piper"

Los Danzantes, Coyoacán.

With a brief ramble through the streets of Coyoacán.

The original danzantes, Oaxaca

(The perceptive reader will immediately be aware that Coyoacán is not in Colonia Roma, norte or Sur, but a separate delegacíon about a 30 minute cab ride to the south. Coyoacán is a charming small city subsumed by the growth of El Monstruo.)



I selected the restaurant Los Danzantes on the recommendation of two different sets of friends. Afterwards, another friend, Sr. Palindroma, a sales executive for an international pharmaceutical firm, stationed at present in New York but originally of Mexico City, asked me about our experience there.

This was my reply, edited for public viewing:

Hi, Palindroma;

Yesterday we went to Coyoacán, which of course is a most charming colonia del DF.

We first walked from the plazas to the Frida Kahlo Casa, because our friend Ronald had never been there before. He found it to be an intense, moving experience.

Meanwhile, Doña Cuevas and I ambled back along Av. Allende. We made a stop at el Café Jarocho, where I had a pretty good express cortado.

Cafe El Jarocho

On continuing, we detoured into the mercado, which for me was a highlight of our visit. There was an eye catching panorama at a fonda.

The freshly prepared cold foods display were very attractive.

Too bad that we didn't eat there instead, because we were to meet other friends at Corazón de Maguey for drinks and botanas, then cross the plaza to Los Danzantes for comida.

Corazón de Maguey

Sra. Cuevas and I also stopped in a truly wonderful bakery, Panadería Le Caroz. Beautiful, creative, and so far, what I've sampled is above average.

Now, I could now kick myself once again, because it's my belief that the best comida Mexicana is found in private homes and perhaps secondarily in las fondas de los mercados. The Coyoacán mercado was very clean and the food was often beautifully presented. And, of course, at a much lower price than in upscale, elegant and/or "hip" restaurants.

By chance, most of my fotos of los platillos of Los Danzantes failed to come out well. Maybe that's a "sign".

Corazón De Maguey is a mezcalería with lighter, more casual food than Los Danzantes. And somewhat lower prices. A more relaxed atmosphere, too. All we shared a guacamole con chapulines to sprinkle on as you like. It was o.k but I've had better, for example, at home. We shared a pitcher of pulque natural, which was very good, somewhat more viscous then those we'd had before.

When our two other friends arrived, they had mezcal Alipus, a house brand, made in the Los Danzantes owned distillery in Oaxaca, and I had a very "touristy" drink, Coctel en Barro. It was pleasant but something like Hawaiian Punch with mezcal added. I only exaggerate a little.

On to comida, across the Plaza, with its famous Fuente de Los Coyotes and the rare black squirrels. The ambiance of Los Danzantes is very nice, but was the case of "Rosetta" in Roma Norte, the tables are crowded together.

Doña C. had an entrada of Baby Pulpo with Papa Explotada. It resembled Pulpos a La Gallega, except the baby octopus was whole, and it was grilled, not boiled. It was very mildly flavored, with a nice caramelized char on the upper surface. She enjoyed it, but Ron, who also had the same, was disappointed. (I have to tell you that he's a very tough customer, that is, very particular.)

I had Hoja Santa Rellena de Quesillo y Queso de Cabra, en un "espejo" de salsa de tomate verde y chile pasilla. This was very good. I'm a big fan of hoja santa, and have often had it with fish, but never with cheese.

My wife skipped a main course and had a Sopa de Habas con Nopales y Camarones. She was pleased by it. I tasted it and thought it was just o.k.

Our amiga, Luz Ma, had enchiladas con dos salsas. One was mole, but I don't know the other one. She started with a Sopa de Frijol Negro, which looked very good.

Ron sid he erred in ordering Rollos De Camarones, which he later described as "pure show" but not much in terms of flavor. I'd passed over that because I saw that it was an Asian Fusion concept. I try to avoid such conceits.

I had Atún en Mojo de Habanero con Arroz Verde. Good, but not as pleasing as the mariscos that we'd eaten the day before at Fonda La Vercruzana in Roma Norte.

However, on the other hand, Ron was very pleased with his dessert; Cascada de Chocolate: Molten Chocolate Cake, ice cream on the side. He said that it was the highlight of the meal.

I drank a mezcal de Matatlán reposado:  I sipped it very slowly to make it last through the meal. It was very good, but ¡$105 pesos!

I'd hoped to have as my dessert Queso de Cabra covered with mole, although it would have meant a lot of cheese in one meal. But it wasn't on the menu that day. I ordered

a Tarta de Mango, which was very disappointing; a dense whole grain bottom crust with a poached (?) mango half on top. I would have preferred a fresh mango.

Tarta de Mango. 

In the end, I conclude that Los Danzantes is good, best if you stick with especialidades Mexicanas, but don't bring expectations of Europe or Asia. Pero, que traiga mucho lana. (But you should bring plenty of money.)

I'm downscaling from now on, because for Doña C. and me, estes restarantes upscale no valen el costo. These restaurants aren't worth their cost.

Ratings:
Food: ****
Service: ***1/2
Price: $$$$
Ambience: looked attractive, but it was hard to tell from our dark and crowded corner at the front.
Restrooms: Very clean, attractive, but must climb stairs, as at Corazón de Maguey.

Would we return? If someone wants to treat us to dinner, fine. Otherwise, no.

Next episode: some great and cheap street food restores my faith.

Six Days In Colonia Roma Norte, México, DF Part 2

Fish Story
Fonda La Veracruzana

Calle Medellín Nº 198, corner of Calle Chiapas, Colonia Roma Norte.


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A few years ago, in a New York Times article on "36 Hours In Mexico City", the writers noted Fonda La Veracruzana as serving Peruvian cuisine. How they got that bit of information is a mystery. Could it be that the writers or perhaps rewriters thought that the ceviches on the menu were Peruvian? were any of them actually there? Lo siento, NY Times, pero no ganas el puro. Fonda La Veracruzana is solidly umm, ah Veracruzana" in style. There's something fishy here.

We'd spotted this cute little fonda on one of our many walks through the area. It's close to the back of Sears Insurgentes and the attached Sanborn's, and about 3 blocks from Mikasa Asian supermarket on Calle San Luis Potosí.

I'd also read a glowing review on Nick Gilman's Good Food In Mexico City blog. Please read his description of the many wonderful dishes offered. But it wasn't until last week that we finally dined there, not once, but twice. Although other local marisquerías have their merits, particularly La Embajada Jarocha and Marisquería La Morenita del Mercado Medellín (neither very far away from La Veracruzana), we were really impressed by most of what we ate at La Veracruzana. I'll describe a few highlights.

We also loved the comfortably informal atmosphere, especially in the sunny back patio dining room, where large mirrors on the walls allow you to bask in your good luck in being there.

Waiter Jaime and the Cuevas couple

Jaime, our gentle mannered waiter brought us a basket of decent bread and Caldo de Camarón on the house. Sra. Cuevas looked over the three menus del día, each with optional variations, and decided on the number 1 menú, which started with either Arroz con Plátanos Machos Fritos or a bowl of Caldo de Camarón. The caldo was just right, a shrimpy broth with vegetables but no visible shrimp, and neither too salty nor picante.

Her main course was a large Filete de Mero Empapelado en Hoja Santa. It was perfectly cooked within its foil envelope, along with tomato, onion and a large leaf of hoja santa, which lent its delicate anise flavor.

Filete Empapelado con Hoja Santa

Doña Cuevas and I were goggle-eyed at two gentlemen at the table behind us, slowly dissecting gigantic whole shrimp hanging over a sundae glass of pinkish sauce. We asked Jaime about the shrimp. They were Camarones Gigantes Para Pelar, and I knew I had to have some. There are 15 of these monster crustaceans per order, at a reasonable $180 pesos. But after a rare pause for rational thought, I asked Jaime if the same shrimp could be prepared in other ways, say, Al Mojo de Ajo.

"¡Claro que sí, Señor!" "Certainly. Look, here on the menu,  Camarones al Mojo. But you get only eight shrimp."

That sounded fine to me. It was a very good decision, for when the platter of split, cleaned, garlicky fried monsters arrived, heads and tails intact, the dining room was suffused with the aroma of shrimp and toasty garlic slivers. I'll just say that those were the best Camarones Al Mojo I'd ever eaten anywhere. So good that I was crunchy the crispy swimmerets and sucking out the heads.

We were so pleased that after dinner, I requested a menu to take with me and they gave me a full, 4 or 5 page, bound menu. I have it around here somewhere.

---

We returned on the following Saturday with our friend, Ron. Ron would put La Veracruzana to the test of his exacting standards, far more exigent than ours.

This time, we immediately ordered the 15 count Camarones Para Pelar. They were truly impressive to see, and Sra. C. and I both enjoyed them. Ron told us that they were from the Gulf of Mexico, as he could taste the iodine in them. (I thought that was how shrimp taste.) At least they were authentically sourced, Veracruz being a port on the gulf. I admit that their texture was disappointingly soft and a bit mealy, probably from overcooking. I wasn't much impressed with the creamy pink sauce in the sundae glass. It seemed to be a thin Russian dressing. Better was a red, sharp cocktail sauce in a dish. It even had horseradish in it! There was also a weedy looking but tangy bottled Salsa Bruja, a spice and herb infused vinegar that went very well with the shrimp.

Camarones Gigantes Para Pelar

We moved on to platos fuertes, main courses. We decided two were enough. I guide Doña Cuevas to a Lomo de Marlín al Acuyo (more hoja santa) y Cacahuates. That was a mistake.

Lomo de Marlin Al Acuyo y Cacahuates

We also ordered a Filete Tlacotlalpan, in which the fish, shrimp and octopus chunks in a dark sauce are enveloped in a banana leaf and steamed. Better than then marlin, which was overcooked and had a sweetish, tomatoey sauce.

Filete Tlacotlalpan outside

Filete Tlacotlalpan inside

We closed our comida with an Anís Seco Chinchón except that I was brought anís dulce, and mineral water. Ron has a Sambuca Negra, which seems to be Sambuca plus Kahlúa. I had a sip. It was delicious.

Ratings:
Food: ****


Service: *** 1/2


Price: $$-$$$ with drinks.


Ambience: Casual, relaxed, mirrored, música Jarocha not too loud. Loved the back patio dining room with its mirrors.

Restrooms: very small, adequate but reasonably clean.

Suggestion: If you go during the week, check the menues del día as they are very good deals. On our first, Wednesday visit, there were three separate menues, from $80 to $110 pesos.

Try the Salsa Bruja, on boiled seafood.

Would we return: Definitely, YES!

Six Days in Colonia Roma Norte, México, DF Part 1

We were back in one of our favorite parts of Mexico City, after spending 20 days in New Jersey. Colonia Roma's faded glory is resurgent, with new restaurants opening, while others close. Unfortunately, there seems to be a trend away from its roots in search of ever more refined, "hip" venues. With a little effort, one can find the more down to earth places.

Part one of this series will describe eating/dining in the immediate vicinity of Colonia Roma Norte.

We arrived travel weary, after a long day and a travel drama worthy of Hollywood. We stayed at the Hotel Embassy, at Calle Puebla # 115, Colonia Roma Norte, México, DF. Because we were so tired, we decided to give the Cantina Los Escudos of  the Restaurante Covadonga a try. It's right next door to the hotel. It's an old place, haunt of Spanish expats and for some unfathomable reason, younger hipsters. We been warned on several other sites that the food is unimaginative and dull. They were right.
We had a couple of drinks, some Calamares al Romano (not bad), some Croquetas de Queso y Jamón Serrano, a specialty of the house (boring), a bowl of Sopa Covadonga de Pollo y Jamón (pretty good and a Filete de Res al Cabrales—big mistake. The filete was swimming in a cream based sauce with very assertive Queso Cabrales incorporated throughout, plus two pink shrimp on top of the filet! What's the point? I couldn't eat but half before giving up. The roof of my mouth felt like it was under attack from the cheese.

Calamares Romanos

From Mexico City Dining Summer 2011

Croquetas d Queso y Jamón

From Mexico City Dining Summer 2011

Filete de Res al Cabrales

From Mexico City Dining Summer 2011

Ratings
Food: **
Service: ***
Price: $$-$$$
Ambience: Old Españoles never die, they just play dominoes.

---

A better venue nearby was the Cafe Toscano Roma, on Calle Orizaba at the northern end of Plaza Río de Janeiro. It features light meals in a casual, hip setting. The two outstanding features are the really excellent coffee and the free wifi. The tomato soup is very good, the house salad good. Pastries are good. Some of the bread is from Restaurant Rosetta's bakery.

Food: ***
Service: ***
Price: $-$$
Ambience: Hip, young

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Few visits to Colonia Roma Norte, México, DF are complete without a visit to Bisquets, Bisquets Obregón, on Av. Álvaro Obregón at Calle Mérida. It's a coffee shop, a "diner", Mexican style. It's clean, well-lighted and open long hours. They also give INAPAM card holders a modest discount. We prefer breakfast there. We like the old fashioned cafe con leche. Supper or comida dishes worth considering are Sopa de Ajo, with or without an egg; Sopa  de Pollo Especial. The regular bread rolls, baked in house, are terrible. The pan dulce looks better than it tastes, but is not bad, depending on which type you choose.

Special note: I greatly dislike the ugly roll of overly rich frijoles refritos that comes with so many meals. Ask instead for Frijoles de Olla, which are much better.

Food: **1/2
Service: ****
Price: $-$1/2 INAPAM discount. Present your card when ordering.
Ambience: Happy family

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For our lunch on Saturday, we made a pilgrimage to Hamburguesas a la Parrilla, on the corner of Calle Colima and Morelia. I devoted a blog post to thisplace a few years ago. Click the red link. We love this place for its hot, juicy, freshly cooked burgers. One menu item, soft drinks in bottles, no seats, plenty of napkins, a great little place. Our friend Ron was so ravenous, that he ordered a Doble Carne con Piña, which cost him over $50 pesos.

Burger Flasher

Food: ****
Service: ¿Que?
Price: $ or less. Bargain
Ambience: Create your own.

---

We also ate breakfast at DeliBroyé, a café run by students at the Instituto Broyé Culinary School. It's on Calle Puebla, between Calle Frontera and Calle Mérida. (I haven't so far found an address on their website. Fortunately, Google Maps knows about it. Puebla 46, Roma, 06700 Cuauhtémoc, Distrito Federal, Mexico)

I'll be as kind as possible. Nice effort, keep practicing.
No fresh fruit juices available, sauce of the "Huevos Revolucionarios" obviously made with tomato puree, plating presentations leave something to be desired; waitress handled utensils by the working end.

Huevos Revolucionarios.

Food: **
Service: **1/2 points for (trying)
Price: $-$1/2
Ambience: Casual patio

---

One rainy night we walked over to Taquitos Frontera, of which there are two locations quite near to each other. The one on Mérida and Álvaro Obregón seems the spiffier, newer of the two, with umbrellaed tables on the sidewalk. It also looks superficially cleaner. The other location, on the corner of A. Obregón at Calle Frontera can best be described as "a hole in the wall", with a louche atmosphere of cluttered crowdedness. This greatly appealed to me, especially after exposure to overpriced, upscale restaurants featuring vertical food on sauce drizzled plates.

We had actually been seeking a pozolería to give sustenance and comfort to our weary bodies, but that appears to have been replaced by a hip bar for affluent aliens from interstellar space. Lástima.

Although Taquitos Frontera didn't serve pozole, they did have birria, which two of us ordered. My wife had Frijoles Charros.

BAM! It was the most intensely and complexly spiced birria we ever tasted. It was also picante, but we loved that endorphin rush, so much that I pounded my fist twice on the table. My wife reported that her Frijoles Charros were very good.

Ron also ordered some Brochetas de champiñones (mushroom "skewers") which were o.k. but nothing special. It's a saute of mushrooms, onions and green peppers.

Not sated by my plato chico de birria, I had a taco of cecina adobada, which was very good, but the tortillas were dry.
The better and more varied salsas were being put on the tables as we were leaving.

Food: ***

Service: ****

Price: $-$1/2

EDIT: I discovered this video of Tacos Frontera on YouTube:

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I nearly forgot Café Nuestra Tierra, next to the Hotel Milán. It's nothing special, but it's convenient for Milán stayers who don't want to eat in the Milán restaurant. Huevos al Gusto, Chilaquiles, the usual but truncated gamut; baguette sandwiches, decent but not particularly great coffee. (It's organically grown, fair trade, you know.) free wifi. Cheap. It's nice.

Food: **1/2
Service: ***
Price: $
Ambience: Ehh? Sidewalk café.
CLOSED Replaced by a hip bar or something. I wasn't paying close attention.

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This concludes today's episode. In another, we'll go farther afield and review some notable restaurants and eating spots in more detail. I also don't want to forget to write about the Gourmet Show, at the World Trade Center, the ostensible reason for our extended stay in Mexico City.