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| Tlacoyos |
(Part of the series, "Six Nights in Colonia Roma Norte, México, DF )
There is a concentration of street food stalls not far from our Hotel Embassy. Cross the northernmost block of Calle Orizaba, across from the side of la Parroquia de La Sagrada Familia, and Calle Puebla becomes Street Food Row. There's a lesser smattering on Calle Orizaba north to Avenida Chapultepec, La Frontera de La Zona Rosa.
On the corner of C/ Puebla and C/ Orizaba, there's a sandwich stand featuring deep fried tamales, a concept which simultaneously fascinates and repels me. It's at the front door of the upscale seafood restaurant, Estampa Del Mar, where you can get a coctel de camarones for, if I recall correctly, $115 or maybe $117 pesos. I suspect that it's not my kind of place.
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| Fried tamales-the breakfast of Chilangos |
I haven't tried the fried tamales, of course, out of dietary concerns, and we were usually on our way to Cafe Toscano, at the south end of the block.
The Serious Street Food Row is along C/ Puebla, for two or more blocks, toward Avenida Insurgentes.
Take, for example, this stand for carnivores. Look at those free salsas and condiments and garnishes.
(Unfortunately, we never got to eat there.)
(Unfortunately, we never got to eat there.)
A solitary Sopa de Gallina stand was very appealing. I'd hoped to eat there, but fate played its cards against me. A large bowl with a 1/4 breast/pechuga starts the price list at $30 pesos, and a variety of chicken parts, your choice, goes on from there. I'm fairly certain they also offered huacál, the egg case of the hen, a treat for the adventurous to eat the delicate unborn eggs in their soup.
We did have a chance to try the glorious tlacoyos and see the quesadillas and gorditas at the prime location of Sra, Gloria's post, right close to the northwest corner of C/ Puebla and C/ Orizaba.
Sra. Gloria comes each work day from Chalma, a 2-3 hour trip, depending on traffic. If I have it right, she works the end of the week but not on Sundays. She was generous to permit us to photograph and video her dexterous and able moves.
Click slideshow for larger versions of pics and a short video.We watched, fascinated, as she handled a flurry of customer requests, patting out masa de maíz azúl, putting in the filling of choice, and deftly forming the tlacoyo by hand. I should define tlacoyo as an antojito of masa de maíz, with a filling such as requesón (ricotta like cheese), or the delicious but heavy mashed papas y habas (potato and fava beans. Sorry, no Chianti was on hand.
But that's not all that you get for your $12 pesos: you can choose toppings such as quelites, wild and cultivated greens, or huitlacoche, the (in)famous black corn fungus, queso fresco, and a choice of several salsas picantes. This is not necesarily comida rápida, although Sra. Gloria works with a young assistant. Your order may take 5 minutes, depending on its complexity but especially of the the line of customers ahead of you.
She told us that she made all her ingredients, even going so far as to nixtamalize maíz azúl seco, (dried blue corn) cook and rinse it, and grind it for her masa.
Although I hate to admit this, this was the only street food we had while in Colonia Roma Norte on this visit. I shall do better next time. It was near the top of my list of "Best Food of The Trip".
Ratings
Food: ****1/2
Service: With a smile and a story ****1/2
Price: 1/2$ Super bargain!
Ambience: urban street, shade tarp and trees. Maybe be a couple of seats, but doubtful.
Hygiene: Good
Rest Rooms: no hay. Nada.
Open Saturday, for sure. Not Sunday nor, as far as we could see, Moday. Other days uncertain. If someone goes there, please let us know.
Would we return? Definitely!
Street View location below. Gloria's stand in the shade of trees, across from the church.
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