Fonda Marceva, Morelia Revisited

We have been recently going to Morelia on medical and other matters. Even so, one must eat.

Yesterday, after stocking up on bakery ingredients at La Frontera, on Plaza Carrillo, at the foot of Calle Abasolo, Centro, we decided to drive up the three blocks to Fonda Marceva. Parking can be difficult in that area, but we were able to gain entrance to the very nice, roofed parking garage on the left, just a half block to the north, just below Calle Aldama.

Fonda Marceva, Calle Abasolo, Centro Morelia

Our comida at Fonda Marceva was excellent, although the service was quite off hand and very inattentive at first. But once the two waiters got going, the service improved.

I was without my better camera, so all I could capture were two inferior photos with an LG cell phone. I do have better photos from earlier visits. I think the comparison of the dishes is interesting.

Fonda Marceva specializes in comida de la Tierra Caliente, from the region of Huetamo. We had been there a couple of times before, with varied results. This time it was very good.

THe weather was nice, so we ate next to the patio, instead of inside the rather somber dining room.

Back Patio

For starters, we were brought fresh, hot, handmade tortillas; delicious soupy beans, a generously filled bowl of rich, thick crema and an excellent, roughly crushed salsa verde.

The soupy beans are illustrative as to how simple, but well prepared food can be so highly satisfying.

We ordered as follows: Doña Cuevas had uchepos, or sweet corn tamales. These were more finely textured that those at La Mesa de Blanca at Ziracuaretiro, but equally good. In their fresh, green corn husks, they were beautiful.

I had toqueres, "pancakes" of roughly ground corn, resembling nothing as much as potato latkes. The deep bowl of thick, rich crema adds to the resemblance. I can imagine these with some smoked salmon or caviar. The crema was also perfect, spread onto a warm tortilla, plus some salsa verde or a tentative nibble of the raw chile.

Sra. Cuevas continued with an attractively presented bowl of Sopa de Habas (Fava Bean Soup), with sprigs of cilantro floating in it alongside fresh tomato slices and one, picante fresh chile verde.

Sopa de Habas (LG cell camera)

For a main dish, I had the memorable Frito, a sort of carne adobada of pork ribs and/or backbone, which may have been slowly baked, not fried, in a concentrated adobo sauce. Lightly pickled raw onions garnish the top. On a previous visit, the Frito had much more jugo and I think it was better. Yet this time, it was heavy but delicious stuff.

Frito de Espinazo, May, 2011

Frito de Espinazo, Sept. 19, 2012 (LG cell camera) 

We passed on the desserts, which from the table tent advert appear to be factory made, but I can't swear to that.

We drank a pitcher of tart and refreshing agua fresca de tamarindo. I started with a mezcal, sharp and potent, and ended with a café de olla, which was undistinguished.

The bill came to $276 pesos, plus a tip. I consider that very good value.

RATINGS

Food: ***1/2, Maybe ****
Service: ** 1/2 (See notes in text.)
Price: $-$$
Ambiance: Faded Colonial glory
Restrooms: Worth a special visit.
Parking at the curb is technically illegal, but it is done. Better, a parking garage 1/2 block up Abasolo. Another parking garage, also on left, on Abasolo after crossing Aldama. Yet another parking garage, two blocks east, on the left, on Aldama.

Abasolo No 455. Colonia Centro. Morelia, Michoacán.
Tel: 312 16 66.


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