Sunday, March 07, 2010

Gourmandizing Mexico City Part 5 -Boca Del Rio


Restaurante Boca Del Río, on Ribera de San Cosme, Colonia San Rafael, is a cherished Mexico City dining spot. It began operations in 1942 as an ambulant cart on the streets. Since then, it has grown to include the original restaurant, #42 San Cosme, and a new branch in la-di-da Polanco.

The restaurant was far out of our walking range of our hotel*, but our dear friends, Luz Ma and Paco came by in their car to carry us there. First, we paid our cultural duties with visits to el Museo de La Geología, at La Alameda de Santa María de La Ribera; then, a walk through the Museo de Arte San Carlos, on Avenida Puente Alvarado. (Which is actually the same wide street as San Cosme, but it changes names at Avenida Insurgentes.)

*We could have arrived there by taking Metro Balderas to Metro Hidalgo, transferring to Linea 2, direccíon Cuatro Caminos, and exiting at Metro San Cosme. But it was nicer to ride in the car, looking at impressive buildings, especially along Paseo de La Reforma.

Another highlight, pre-comida, was the wonderful Kiosco Morisco in the Alameda de Sta. María de La Ribera.



View Mexico City, D.f. in a larger map


After some skilled navigating, Paco got us to the estacionamiento behind the restaurant. We entered through the utility and delivery entrance, past prep tables and check-in scales. I liked that.

The dining room is vast, and I estimate that it could hold several hundred diners. The style is 1960's glass, Formica and chrome trim, on a background of stainless steel.


The menu, as anticipated, was lengthy. It can be seen on Boca Del Ríos own website, but it's more accessible on Queremoscomer.com.mx


I already knew that I wanted something chilled, and relatively light, so after very little consideration, I ordered a large Ceviche Vuelve a La Vida, sin ostiones. Raw Mexican oysters and I have a bad history that goes back many years.

Luz Ma requested one of her favorites; Filete de Salmón asado. Paco ordered a Coctel de Jaiba, sin cilantro, and then a nice Mojarra Dorada, bien cocida.
Doña Cuevas started with a small Coctel de Camarones al Natural. (Simply, peeled cooked shrimp in a glass.), and for a main course, Pescado Empapelado. She asked the waitress of what species of fish was it made, and the favorable answer was "mero". In our opinion, the farmed blanco de Nilo filets used by many seafood restaurants, including our querido Mariscos La Güera in Pátzcuaro, are devoid of both taste and texture.

Slides, please!
Coctel de Jaiba
Coctel de Camarones al Natural
Ceviche Vuelve A La Vida


I enjoyed the ceviche, but I would have liked it less condimented. It was difficult to distinguish the individual flavors of the parts.

Everyone liked the dishes they had chosen. Señora "Ojos Grandes" couldn't finish every bite of her pescado empapelado, it was so much.

Pescado Empapelado

We skipped dessert and headed back to the hotel. A little later, la Doña and I went to the Parque Tolsá, across Balderas, and I smoked a fine Puro Robusto Maduro de San Andrés Tuxtla, Veracruz. I'd bought it at "El Paraiso Del Fumador" (formerly Puros Hermanos Petrides), in Centro, on Calle Rep.de Uruguay.

Ratings for Boca Del Río
Food: ****
Service: *****
Price: $$-$$$
Restrooms (Hombres): Slightly rough around the edges and in the cracks.

Saturday, March 06, 2010

Gourmandizing Mexico City part 4- Las Comidas

                              ~ Casino Español ~

Although there are a wealth of upscale dining choices in Mexico City, few of interest to us are in the barrio where we stayed. But it's a 20 minute walk to the mero Centro, where a wondrous world of dining unfolds. Or, you can take the Metro for 2 or 3 stations, and walk upstairs into the grand and dazzling space that is the Zócalo. We chose to take the Metro, boarding at Balderas and exiting at Isabel La Católica. From there, we walked approximtely 10 -12 blocks north to the Casino Español.



For about 2 years now, we'd wanted to dine at the Casino Español, a palatial edifice on Calle Isabel La Católica, between Avenida Madero and Av. Carranza. No architecture student myself, I can't pin down the elaborate style of the vast, vaulted halls and salons of the building. There are a lot or Moorish elements and stained glass. Fortunately, the dining room, on the primer piso, reached by elevators or a Grand Staircase, is much more conservative and soothing in mien. It's tastefully painted in calming tones of beige and pale yellow. The ceiling has numerous attractive recesses. The ample space is broken by only a few support columns. A somewhat incongruous note is the bank of industrial strength Carrier air conditioners flanked along the window wall.


After a brief wait in rococo but comfortable chairs on the mezzanine level, we were escorted to a nice table. We passed a service cart with two jamones serrano awaiting carving into those thin, tasty slices. (But although I like jamón serrano, I don't order it in restaurants because it does not in anyway demonstrate the creativity of the kitchen. Plus, it's costly as hell.)

Once at our nicely linen-draped table, our waiter pressed the wine list upon us. I deferred ordering the wine, as I prefer to know first what main course we'd be having. We were already very inclined to all seafood, as we'd already consumed an unusual quantity of meat in two days. We were brought crusty bread, herbed butter that looked a bit tired and filmed over, and a dish of lovely green olives.


So, we ordered a bottle of Albariño from Galicia ($350 MXP) and began making our choices from the extensive menu. Our waiter brought a wine bucket with ice, and made sure that the bottle was chilling nicely.

Among the entradas, one stood out for us: Pulpos a la Gallega de Feira. We'd last had that wonderful simple dish prepared properly while overlooking the Mar Cantábrica, in the tiny fishing village of Puerto de Vares, the northernmost point in Spain. Since then, other attempts in marisquerías in Mexico had left us unsatisfied, for their interpretations were more in the nature of sauteed octopus with sweet peppers,
But the pulpos at Casino Español were tender perfect, served in the classic manner with a little olive oil, a sprinkle of coarse salt and a dusting of picante, smokey, Pimentón de La Vera. (The last is one of my favorite condiments.).
The only small flaw was that the accompanying boiled potatoes had been cut very small and were overcooked. But, it was a great starter, in spite of that.
                      Pulpos a la Gallega.

We both ordered soups to follow the pulpos. Doña Cuevas had a Sopa Castellana, which is basically a Sopa de Ajo, plus bits of chorizo and jamón. She enjoyed it, but wished the bits were a bit bigger.
I had a modest but good Caldo de Mariscos, thankfully bone-and-shell-less. It was nice, but not somethng I'd order again. The stock was a bit oversalted.

It was very difficult to choose a plato fuerte. We finally decided on Lomo de Huauchinango estilo Muiña. At least, if I recall correctly, that was its description.

It was plated on a "mirror" of a saffron sauce and garnished with a few shrimp, a couple of clams and a heap of surimi anguillas. The latter were striking to see, but had little taste. I ordered some arroz blaco to help take up the delicate but tasty sauce.


We ordered two bottles of agua mineral, and they were long in coming. Actually, when the first came, they were "still" water, not sparkling, so we sent them back.

Dessert was not on Doña Cuevas To Do List, but out of a sense of duty to my blog readers, I ordered a Tarta de Almendras Asturiana. It was essentially the same as Tarta de Santiago; a gooey almond tart, in a pool of Cream Inglesa accompanied by a small scoop of vanilla ice cream, We also had cafes Americanos, which were of good but not great quality.


We had prepared our minds for a staggeringly large bill, but it came in at "only" $980 MXP, of which you'll recall, $350 was for the wine. We gave a generous tip, not enough for our waiter to retire on after the shift was over, but he gave us a pleased look.

Ratings:
Food: **** out of 5
Service *** 1/2 (We had to request several small things more than once. Noted, the restaurant was very busy.)
Ambience (special category):*****+
Restrooms: Fine. Attendant present. Bring change.

PS: There was live music, from a rousing, hearty troupe of estudiantinas, but we were not fazed because we were finishing up as they started their good and hearty fellows rounds. A classical or Spanish guitar player would have been preferred, but it wouldn't have reached across the vast dining room.

Friday, March 05, 2010

Gourmandizing Mexico City part 3-The Breakfasts

In our wanderings up and around the Barrio San Juan, we missed a few things. (Come on, how much can two people handle?!)

After we got home, a Chowhound.com post on the Mexico Forum, by "StreetGourmetLA" directed us, belatedly, to Ricos Tacos Toluca, a fabulous taquería specializing in the chorizos and embutidos of the Toluca region. We probably had passed within a block of the place.
Well, hopefully, there will be a next time.

I then did a routine Google search, and rediscovered Nick Gilman's post on the area, in his blog, "Good Food In Mexico City", which I recommend to you. It has been my inspiration on many occasions. His focus was on Calle López, which we crossed several times, but didn't explore bottom to top.

Since it's breakfast time here, I'll describe our various breakfasts over the weekend.

Usually, I'd get up early, and check email at the desk in our suite while drinking Nescafé (for medicinal purposes only!) with some pan dulce from the Panificadora "Las Palmas", just down the street, between Revillagigedo and Luis Moya. It's a neighborhood place, but has rico pan dulces. I liked the "peinitas", or combs, a sort of cheese filled bearclaw.

Later, about 9 a.m., we'd go out for a walk and have breakfast. Saturday morning, we walked all the way to El Huequito, on Calle Bolívar. But we had to fuel up with good coffee before getting very far. Fortunately, the path was lined with coffeehouses. We stumbled upon the great little neighborhood place, "La Piccolina", at the corner of Luis Moya and Marqués Sterling, across from the Hotel San Diego. We received a warm welcome, especially from the Señora customer who takes her regular seat at the barra. The café con leche was rich and strong. We returned on Tuesday morning, for a full, hearty breakfast of enmoladas, huevos rancheros and chilaquiles verdes con pollo. With 3 or 4 coffees and a large jugo de naranja, it all came to about $260 MXP, if I recall correctly.
Below, the Café Con Leche.
Below, the Enchiladas al Mole

Ratings:
Food and drink: ****
Service: ****
Price: $-$$
Restrooms: Good, but tiny.

But on Saturday, we stopped only for a recarga de cafecito. We were heading for El Huequito, a classic taco restaurant and an old favorite of ours. (I forgive them their silly and annoying Flash animated website.)
It's in the true Centro Histórico, and east of the Barrio San Juan, on Clle Bolívar, between Rep. de Uruguay and Calle El Salvador, about a 30 minute walk from the Hotel Pal.

Although you can have eggs, any style, or a cup of fresh fruit with yogurt (as did Doña Cuevas), I went for the Tacos de Bistek Inglés, succulent and tender slices of filete de res in a lemon-Worcestershire sauce. To fill things out, I added a bowl of frijoles de la olla. They are some of the best I ever had. When la Doña tasted some of mine, she ordered a bowl, too. The frijoles are tender, whole, in a slightly thickened broth and deep, earthy flavor.
Below, Tacos de Bistek al Inglés
Below, Frijoles de La Olla, El Huequito

We returned on Monday night to El Huequito for dinner with our friend Larry. But that's another story.
Rating:
Food: *****
Service ****
Price: $-$$
Restrooms: clean

Sunday morning, on a tip from the owner of the Cocina Ángel on Arcos de Belén, we walked back up Luis Moya (which had become our main route to the gastronomic heart of the Barrio San Juan) and at Calle Ernesto Pugibet, turned right, there to find the Cocina Vianey, which features barbacoa on Saturdays and Sundays. This was a great, family place in the neighborhood. We were offered a fat taco of barbacoa de borrego as a tempter, and we sat down at a rear table with a gentleman customer.

We both ordered consomé de borrego and another taco each. I, one of pancita, which was subtly different. The tacos were rich but the consomé was primal. I had another half bowl, as well as a taco of espadilla, another cut of borrego. Total: $50 MXP
Food:*****
Service: *****
Price: $
Restrooms: didn't look.
A great little place of authentic, traditional Mexican fonda food, not to be missed. For non meat eaters, there are also quesadillas.


We passed on the Nescafé at Cocina Vianey, and went seeking some power coffee at La Piccolina. Alas, it was closed on Sunday morning. So we walked back toward Arcos de Belén and stopped in at the quirky Cafetería Doña Barbara, run by an ex lucha libre wrestler, "El Panda". It's an eclectic place, with a feel of the 40's, walls covered with photos of hollywood stars of that era, as well as El Panda memorabilia. We just had two cafes con leche, and they were fine. We haven't tried the food.

Monday morning, we stayed close to the hotel, as we were meeting our friends Luz Ma and Paco for a visit to some museums in Sta María de La Ribera, to be followed by lunch at Restaurante Boca Del Río. (Coming soon, to a blog near you.)

We breakfasted at Cocina Ángel, on Arcos de Belén, between Revillagigedo and Luis Moya which has had a number of names under various past owners. The owners' affability is not equalled by the food. It is inexpensive, though. Unrated.

Thursday, March 04, 2010

Gourmandizing Mexico City part 2

We arrived at our hotel on Friday afternoon at 3:30. The Metro from Terminal Observatorio got us there quickly and cheaply ($3 MXP each).

After checking in, and paying for the first night, we briefly explored the features of our decadent suite. When we recovered our senses, we were hungry. We wanted to eat nearby, and almost nothing qualified better than Tacos Xotepingo, a mere 2 1/2 blocks from the hotel. Earlier, I'd found the place on Google Maps Street View, one of my favorite tools for city research.

Tacos Xotepingo is on Avenida Balderas at Calle Marqúes Sterling. It's a big, new construction. A long grill sits out in the front of the patio section.

It looked great, and it was pretty good.

The menu runs to 4 plastic laminated pages. How to choose from such a large menu?
Below, just the cover sheet.

We decided to get an order of 3 tacos al pastor, and one taco de cecina, nopal y queso. Two mugs of draft beer. (This is something we'd not had before in Mexico, although I recall that La Surtidora in Pátzcuaro offers it.)

While we waited for our food to arrive, I looked the place over. Adjacent to us was the tortilla Señora, addressed as "Mami" by the waitstaff. She was constantly busy.

In the larger back salon, a combo played Mexican favorite tunes. They weren't bad, but for that reason we chose to sit in the front, away from the speakers.

The food arrived. The tacos al pastor were good, but we'd had better. These were a bit dry, or, "crisp", if you like, but tasty. The array of salsas helped moisten them.



The taco de cecina, nopal y queso was huge: a sheet of cecina (salt-cured, semi-dry beef), the nopal consisted of the whole penca (leaf), and there was ample cheese.

The beer was fine. The scene was lively and colorful.

Conclusion: it's hardly fair to judge a restaurant on the basis of one meal, but I'll give Tacos Xotepingo a provisional rating.

Food: *** out of 5
Service ***
Price: $-$$ (one $ represents $100 pesos per person, for a full meal.)
Restroom: Very clean.
While I prefer El Huequito in el mero Centro, Tacos Xotepingo is fine for a meal when I don't want to go far from the hotel.

Gourmandizing Mexico City part 1

We passed a glorious gourmandizing weekend in Mexico City. Afterward, back home, it was difficult at first to organize the information in a meaningful way, without boring my readers with excess details.


I think I've got my plan sorted out now. Our stay at the Hotel Pal I'll describe on  Surviving La Vida Buena .


The small eats and taquerías I'll cover briefly. Three significant restaurants, El Huequito, Casino Español and Boca del Río will be covered in more detail.
Here's a simple list of the highlights of our visit:
• Hotel y Villas Pal  Yes; that description of our hotel will be on Surviving La Vida Buena
• Tacos Xotepingo, our first meal on arrival.
• Panificadora "Las Palmas"... a modest bakery just down the street from the Hotel.
• Cafetería "Doña Bárbara... quirky coffehouse around the block on Calle Luis Moya.
• Cafetería "La Piccolina"...a cozy little coffee house a few blocks up Luis Moya, across from the Hotel San Diego.
•Cocina "Vianey", on Calle Ernesto Pugibet, a half a block west of Mercado San Juan. (Barbacoa y consomé los sábados y los domingos)
• Mercado San Juan de Especialidades; the nucleus of our interests.
• The "Coffee Corner", Aranda and Ayuntamiento, with 3 coffeehouses/roasters, and another 2 blocks away, at Mercado San Juan.
• Pulquería "Las Duelistas", on Aranda, for a wild and crazy taste of pulque in an hallucinatory environment.
• Vinos y deli "La Europea"; fine wines and liquors and delicacies.
• Molinera de Chiles (and other spices) "El Progreso".
• Restaurante "El Huequito", the big brother sit-down restaurant to the original "hole-in-the wall" taco stand on Ayuntamiento, in the La Europea building.
• Casino Español (the big splurge); a grand edifice on Calle Isabel La Católica, with high ceilinged halls leading to a surpringly pleasant and conservative dining room.
• Café "Jekimir"; a Lebanese style coffee house, on Calle Isabel near Calle Regina.
• "Biblos", tienda chica de comida Libanés; the one to which we were directed is in the garment district, on Calle El Salvador, east of Pino Súarez and just past Calle Correo Mayor. I had genetic flashbacks to New York's Lower East Side while walking that area in Mexico City's Centro.
• Bar "Salon Corona", the original one on Bolívar, Centro.
• Restaurante "Boca del Río"; the original, huge seafood eating hall on Ribera San Cosme, Colonia San Rafael.

Admittedly, it's impossible for any one person to cover all of the Mexico City eating opportunities in a short time. You'd run out of money, or die trying. So, I decided to focus on the area I'm calling the "Barrio San Juan", whose boundaries I define as Avenida Júarez on the north, Av Balderas to the west, Eje Central 3 (San Juan de Letrán) to the east, and Av Arcos de Belén as the south area. We confined our selves mostly to the southern and central areas, plus forays eastward into the true Centro Histórico.

Here's a draggable, interactive map of the area to which I refer. Our hotel, the Pal, is  in the southwestern corner, just east of Metro Balderas.
Click "View Mexico City, D.f. in a larger map" and you shall receive.



View Mexico City, D.f. in a larger map


We ate a lot, shopped some, and fortunately, walked more. In general, it was a very satisfactory visit. In Part 2, I'll briefly describe some of the smaller places we enjoyed. Part 3 will review the big deal dinners. The rest will develop as it will.


Saludos,
 Don Cuevas

Bulletin! "StreetgourmetLa", on Chowhound.com, describes the "Ricos Tacos Toluca, in the same general area as we were exploring.
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/691633

Sunday, February 07, 2010

Attack of the Killer Tomatoes

What happened to the tomatoes in México? Generally, the ones we get are nearly tasteless. The majority are the "saladette" type, what we yanquis would call Romas. Yet they have almost no resemblance in taste to the San Marzano pear-shaped tomatoes from Italy.

Los jitomates bolas, when you can find them, are a little more flavorsome, but are usually watery.

See this WikiPedia
article on tomatoes and their origin. Mexico helped give tomatoes to the rest of the world, but in recent years, they are slacking off at the job. Maybe it's different outside of Michoacán. I hope so.

The local tomatoes are o.k. in Huevos a la Mexicana, in salsas frescas, or any dish where they serve mostly to bulk up and buffer a spicy concoction. But for those of us wanting to make Italian style sauces, one must locate some good canned tomato products. This has become easier in the last couple of years. It wasn't too long ago that a friend in Morelia found a #10 can of tomato paste, which he ended up giving to me when he moved.
It was more of a curse than a blessing, for we had to find a way to store and freeze the surplus once the huge can was opened.

That, and various canned or boxed puré de tomate was about all we could find just a few years ago. Then came the Tomato Breakthrough. Cans of Progresso Brand Crushed Tomatoes in Puree started appearing in larger supermercados such as Wal-Mart and Superama and Soriana.


The graceful, Modigliani necked bottles of Cirio Passata Di Pomodori made their entry into the higher echelons of Morelia stores. The Cirio tomatoes were light, but flavorsome, but more expensive. For a while, Cirio twin paks were found in Costco. Then they vanished, to be replaced first by Contadina Prepare Pizza Sauce, which is very thick, cheap, decent when serving pizza to a crowd, but not for pasta sauces.

Then the Spanish, not content with having conquered Mexico's native people, brought up its best weapons in the tomato conquest stakes: Cidacos brand tomatoes; including very good Tomates Triturados (ground or crushed), and whole peeled tomatoes (Tomates Enteros). They are usually available at Wal-Mart and Superama. Mega Comercial used to carry both Cidacos and Cirio, but has pretty much reverted to its popular base lines of Purés de Tomate. (Del Fuerte is the best brand of that lot.)

A year or two later, the canned tomato battlelines shift frequently, as we now found rich color Progresso Brand Crushed Tomatoes in Puree, which is a great start for pizza or your pasta fazool.




On a recent visit to Superama, just after buying the Progresso tomatoes at Soriana, we couldn't help but pick up some cans of both Cidacos Tomates Triturados and even better, some canned Cirio Pomodori Pelati Entero. (Please excuse the mixing of languages.)





The next day we visited Costco in hot pursuit of more tomatoes.
Costco carryies a nice line of American style canned tomatoes; we especially like the S&W Tomates Guisados Estilo Italiano, in a case of 12. They are Italian seasoned stewed tomatoes. But on the day of our last visit they were not available on Costco's tomato shelves. The S&W diced tomatoes do fine in a pinch. They are best in soups, stews, pot roasts and the like; less successful in pasta sauces. Now, if you own a restaurant, or else are truly nuts, you can buy #10 cans of tomato sauce or puree, and, yes, I think also tomato paste, at your friendly Morelia Costco. You probably won't find as great a range of S&W tomato products as pictured here at Costco, Morelia.






In conclusion; it's not so difficult to find decent canned tomato products, at least in Morelia. It's nearly impossible, so far, in Pátzcuaro. But its day will come.


Here, below, a promised recipe for a pizza sauce; adapted from
The Vegetarian Epicure, Book 2, by Anna Thomas. (Yes, it's an expensive, out-of-print book.) I ramp it up the quantity in order to use the entire contents of the cans.

  • 2 cups canned pureed tomatoes (Cidacos Tomates Triturados or better, Progresso Tomatoes Crushed in Puree)
  • 1/2 cup tomato paste (case of 12, 12 oz cans available at Costco)
  • 1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped peeled tomatoes. (a can of S&W diced or Italian syle, for example. Or better, a drained and crushed can of Cirio Pomodori Pelati)
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 tsp or more orégano, crushed. (Mexican orégano is fine.)
  • 1 tsp basil, crushed
  • 1/4 tsp thyme (tomillo)
  • dash of marjoram (mejorana. I leave it out.)
  • dash of cinnamon (El toque especial. Just go easy. It shouldn't taste like a CinnaBon treat.)
  • 2 Tbs. red wine vinegar, or red wine
  • 1 tsp sugar, or too taste. Go easy on the sugar. You could even omit it.
  • 2 or more cloves of garlic, crushed or minced.
  • I add a Tbsp of olive oil and a few shakes of hot red pepper flakes. You can crush a dried red chlie in a molcajete. That is optional.
Taste for seasoning (it will tend to be more concentrated when your pizzas bake), and espesally for thickness. It's important that pizza sauce not be runny. Add more tomato paste if it needs thickening.

Saturday, February 06, 2010

A Feasta Pizza


Pizza is one of my favorite foods to make and to eat. What could be better than to share with friends? We decided to invite friends both old and new. In the end there were 9 guests and we two hosts.

While it's theoretically possible to serve pizza and nothing more than beverages, that would not be the Don Cuevas way of doing things.
So it was, after considerable planning, shopping and changes of menu, I finally came up with this:

Pizza Party Menu January 30, 2010
  • Mezze Platter: Garbanzo Salad, Kalamata Olives, Sweet Red Peppers Stuffed with Herbed Feta Cheese (purchased); on a bed of cress.
  • Batones de jícama sprinkled with lime juice.
  • Cucumber, Tomato, Onion and Black Olive Salad. (Made by Shirley A.)
  • Improvised, last minute Minestra di Cavolo Negro, potato, small white beans, turnip and greens, carrot, onion, garlic, tomato; served with a dab of pesto. Greens and turnips were from Mercado Buen Provecho and they were first rate!
  • Italian style Coleslaw.
  • Pizzas: 2 Margheritas. (All pizzas had a cheese blend of approx. 70% mozzarella and 30% smoked provolone.)
  • 1 Mushroom and Onion.
  • 1 Italian style fennel sausage and sweet peppers.
  • 1 Pizza Poblana: thick, smoky bacon, rajas de chile Poblana, onions and cheeses, cilantro garnish.
  • 1 of sweet peppers tricolores.
  • Various wines, beers, agua de Jamaica.
  • Sticks of fresh cut pineapple.
  • Chiapas coffee.

We'd hoped to cook the pizzas outside on the charcoal grill, but the weather turned cold and rainy. Thus we reverted to using the less than entirely satisfactory oven. The problem with the oven is that it has a capacity of only two 16" perforated pizza pans. The maximum heat obtainable is about 425º F, if I'm lucky. The bottom shelf does not achive as high a heat as the upper, therefore an exchange from shelf to shelf is necessary.

There were 5 balls of pizza dough, but only 3 perforated pans, and I had to use the 2 non-perforated black coated pans. Those did a much better job than the perfs.

The Action Plan was this, more or less. The sausage (recipe follows) was already made and in the freezer. The greens and beans for the unplanned, last minute soup were cooked ahead. The salads were prepared in the morning. The food processor saw a great deal of action to prepare vegetables and cheese. The Herbed Feta Cheese Stuffed Peppers were purchased from Costco and only needed to be opened, drained of oil, and sprinkled with some red wine vinegar. You can use fresh lemon juice. A few anchovy strips were draped over a selected few.
(Garbanzo Salad recipe follows.)

The pizza dough was made in two batches, The first had a 6-hour preferment with some rye flour; the second was made as a straight dough without any preferment. The second rose faster and was somewhat easier to extend into rounds.

The sauce was more or less an old favorite, from The Vegetarian Epicure, by Anna Thomas. (recipe in another post to come, "On Canned Tomato Products in Mexico", or some similar name.)

The story on the Unplanned, Last Minute Improvised Minestra was that I'd been joking with Doña Cuevas that what we needed was a soup. I could whip it up in 30 minutes in the new pressure cooker. The joke became reality as the weather turned cold with rain. So, using 1 or 2 carrots, a peeled potato cut into chunks, a large peeled turnip cut into chunks, 1 roughly cut onion, 2 cloves of garlic, some chopped celery, some dried basil, fresh parsley, then sauteeing these in a little olive oil in the bottom part of the 8-quart pressure cooker. I then added 8 cups of water and 6 cubes of Knorr-Suiza Cubos de Costilla Jugosa, closed the lid, set the pressure to #2, and when it came up to steam, set a timer for 15 minutes.

When the 15 minutes had passed, I opened the quick release valve, and a moment or two later was able to open the lid. Then I added two cans of S&W cubed tomatoes, several cups of the precooked mixed greens (from Mercado Buen Provecho), the precooked alubias blancas chicas (small white beans similar to Navy Beans), a couple more cups of water, and brought it to a simmer fr a few minutes uncovered and without pressure.

There was the obligatory "taste for seasoning". Very little adjustment was needed, but a spoonful of sugar and some black pepper.

I spooned a little basil pesto into each bowl (made during the herb growing season and frozen in small containers.) This soup was fragrant and hearty, in fact, one of the best I've ever made. The only meat in it was some bacon in the mixed greens.

Recipes below.

Garbanzo Salad
4-6 cups of cooked garbanzos. Preferably cooked from dry, not canned.
1 1/2 red onions, sliced thinly

Make a dressing of 1 cup olive oil (or less to taste)
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1 tsp sugar
salt to taste
3 Tbsp cooking liquid from the garbanzos
fresh-ground black pepper to taste
4 cloves garlic, minced
Minced fresh parsley, optional

Toss garbanzos with dressing. Serve cool or at room temp.
Source: The Vegetarian Epicure, Book 2, by Anna Thomas.
(The Salads and Cold Vegetables chapter is a highlight of this excellent book. My version of the pizza crust and sauce also come from there.)

Garbanzo Salad

Fennel Sausage
(from The Mediterranean Cookbook, by Joyce Goldstein.)

2 pounds medium gound pork, 1/3 third weight in fat. I have it ground to order at a reliable carnicería. I use Carnicería La Sin Rival for this, on Ibarra, near the corner of Espejo, in Pátzcuaro

1/4 cup dry red wine
2 tablespoons brandy (or Tequila -mw)
1 tabelspoon ground fennel seeds ("hinojo" in Spanish)
1 to 2 tablespoons dried red pepper flakes (You can grind up some dried red chiles in a spice grinder or in a molcajete if you lack this ingredient.)
1 1/2 teaspoons dried or 1 tabelspoon fresh thyme leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons dried orégano. (I use Mexican orégano, but be sure the little twigs are removed-mw)
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
2 teaspoons or to taste, freshly ground black pepper
2 feet hog casing (optional. I never use it.)

Mix ingredients well with hands. Slowly fry a small test patty. Taste. Adjust seasoning. Do not taste raw sausage.-mw

Pack about 8 ounces of sausage per small sandwich bag. Close tightly to exclude air. Freeze.

To cook: thaw first, broil or fry chunks in a skillet with a light film of olive oil. Good with a light pasta sauce. I suggest rigatoni pastas; very good with fried sweet peppers in a sandwich or on a pizza.

Pizza Dough
Based on a recipe in The Vegetarian Epicure, Book 2, by Anna Thomas.
This is not necessarily an authentic, nor artisanal method, but it's quite practical and easy.

1 pkg (2 tsps. or less) dry yeast
1 1/4 cups warm water
2 tsp. sugar (I often use only 1 tsp.)
3 cups flour
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1 Tbsp. olive oil

Method
Dissolve the yeast in 1/2 cup of the warm water, add the sugar, leave for up to 10 minutes.

Next, in a large mixing bowl, or the bowl of a stand mixer, add the rest of the water and the dissolved yeast.

Add the flour 1 cup at a time, then the salt, then as it starts to form a dough, add the olive oil.

Here follows my interpretation.
I mixed this on low speed in a 5-qt Kitchen Aid Stand mixer, using the paddle attachment. It's not necessary nor desirable to mix the dough to a firm, dry state. It's enough that it cohere and leave the sides of the bowl. It should be a little moist and slack.

Drizzle a little more olive oil down the inside of the bowl and coat the dough bowl. Cover and leave to rise approx. 1 hour to 2 hours, or until double in size.

Note: with the undermixing method I used, it's beneficial to gently lift and fold the slack dough 2-3 times over the period of an hour and a half.
Pease note also that our kitchen is unusually cool and that we are at an elevation of approximately 7000 feet a.s.l undobtedly affects the rising time. Overall, it's better to let dough rise slowly and under cooler conditions. The best flavor is attained that way. However, a difference of 30 minutes won't make much difference in taste.

This fully matured dough is divided into 2 equal pieces, then each is gently rounded and left to rest on a floured work surface for ~20 minutes.

Your oven should be preheated to at least 425º F, preferably 500º if possible.

Gently pat out and extend a dough ball with your hands and then begin rolling it out. Be patient. It sometimes resists, but that's not as likely with the slack mixed dough I described above.



I give the pans a light shpritz of PAM and a sprinkling of yellow cornmeal.
Dust a little flour on the dough circle, fold in two, and place on the pan. Unfold, and it's ready for the sauce and topping.

More pizza pics over the last few years, both in pizzerías and at home, in this Pizza Web and Other Italiana Slideshow. Click a pizza pic to see the larger version.



I note that this post was planned to precede the one on Attack of the Killer Tomatoes, but there was a time-space discontinuity that unexpectedly occurred, and así es.

Update: Through the use of Post Options, I was able to alter the Continuum. Magic!

Sunday, January 31, 2010

A Crabby Critic Returns to El Pescador, Morelia Centro


We were in Morelia last Wednesday on some business. When it was concluded, we walked with our friend, Rosa, to El Pescador. Loyal readers may recall my review from our first visit last summer. The menu at this restaurant, on the west side of Morelia's Centro, has a considerably ambitious menu than those in our usual haunts.

Last time, I had Huachinango a La Veracruzana. This time, I chose Jaibas Rellenas. In terms of spectacular visual presentation, a great choice. In terms of eating, less great, but not bad. The price was a remarkably low $78 pesos, if I recall correctly.

The stuffing, which seemed to be made of lots of onions, crabmeat (?) a little chile, tomato and sweet pepper was pretty good but not wonderful.  The pure, unadorned crab meat in the more hidden recesses of the body was nice. Some of the claw meat was darker and stronger than the body meat. In all, I'm glad I had it, but probably wouldn't order it again. They also offered Jaibas al Mojo de Ajo (Fried garlic and oil sauce.)


Doña Cuevas had the Camarones Empanizados. She said they were good, if somewhat oily, and because of the butterfly cuts, drier than our favorites at Mariscos La Güera.


Our friend Rose had the Filete de Pescado Al Mojo de Ajo. The garlic was noticeably browner than what we've had elsewhere, but apparently she liked it.


As you see in the accompanying photos, the plates come garnished with a finely ground carrot salad. This item is, to my taste, totally skippable. Across town, at "Mariscos La Jaiba—Boulevard", a similar carrot salad is served, but at least it's shredded and has some interesting texture. But not a big deal. Just skip it. (I see I mentioned this in my last review.)

Also, Rosa had a coctel chico de camarones, served in a metal tulip cup. We had a jarra of limonada and a fair but not great michelada.
Our bill was $461 pesos, plus a tip.

Lots of the specialty dishes at El Pescador have melted cheese on them. I prefer seafood without cheese, but our good waitress was cognizant of that, and helped steer me away from those items.

It's a good restaurant, but read the menu carefully and ask questions of your server. My general rule in Mexican seafood restaurants is that simpler dishes tend to be more satisfactory.

Thanks to our new Star Rating System, we can rate El Pescador for the convenience of our readership.

Food: 3***
Service: 4****
Price: $-$$*
Restrooms: Clean

* I have decided to quantify the price scale so that $= $100 pesos Mexicanos, or somewhat less than $10 USD.

Monday, January 25, 2010

Patio Restaurante "Las Brisas" Pátzcuaro

We had been reading about this newish restaurant for some months. The location seems a bit odd: under the lower ramparts of the Club Deportivo Vista Del Rey, on a dead end street, for all practical purposes. The address is Calle Teresa Dávalos # 22, Centro.



It's accessed best from Pátzcuaro Centro, then ascending Calle Romero, turning left on the newly improved Calle Esperanza (formerly one of the worst streets in the city.). A right past the lower gate of the Club Deportivo, and you arrive a the outdoor expanses of Patio Las Brisas. The street down from the Santa Clara highway is impassable to sane drivers. There is no lack of parking space.

It's an attractive, one story building with a paved patio, shaded by awanings and umbrellas. The restrooms are very clean.




The menu of the restaurant, printed on two sides of a laminated sheet of paper, showcases the specialties of seafood and grilled meats.


I hope that my prior skepticism about the seafood may be forgiven; the deservedly famed Mariscos La Güera is just a few blocks away, but comparison is inevitable.

We were brought a complimentary plate of "nachos" with the menus. Those were the weakest point of the meal. They were cold totopos squirted with imitation nacho cheese sauce, some sliced pickled jalapeños on them, and in my opinion, I'd rather have fresh, plain chips and a decent salsa than anything that poor.

Fortunately, from there on everything else was much better.

Besides a small selection of bottled salsas, we were brought two salsas caseras. One, a thick paste of roasted chiles, which to me tasted somewhat burnt, and a typical, cooked salsa of tomatoes and chiles.



We ordered a jarra of fresh limonada, made with agua mineral, and it was fine.

For starters, my three companions had cocteles de mariscos, at bargain prices. The mediano size were only $35 MXN, and other than an excess of catsup on top, were excellent. I had two Tostadas Campechanas, normally accompanied by rice and salad, but I requested only the tostadas. The regular price is $55. These are not snack size seafood tostadas, but piled high with deliciously fresh tasting seafood. The seasoning was light, fresh and perfect. The pulpos (octopus) segments were a bit chewier than I've had elsewhere, but still enjoyable.

Now, the comparison: Las Brisas's tostadas were piled higher than those of La Güera. (They also cost more.) The tostadas at Las Brisas tasted more of seafood than condiments.
The LBS cocteles were very good, but would be better with less catsup. At least the catsup seemed more "real" than the pale, artificially thickened stuff used in so many other marisquerías.
In conclusion; we liked Las Brisas' seafood a lot and we still love La Güera's.



Our main course choices were varied. Our friends split a Parillada Mixta for two. It was a cazuela de barro filled with grilled chicken breast, strips of carne asada, pork chops, whole shrimp, some especially tasty chorizo; nopales and cebollitas. There was a light sauce or marinade over all.



Doña Cuevas had a regional specialty, an excellent version of Enchiladas Tarascas con Pollo. It was covered with shredded lettuce, onions and a sprinkle of queso fresco. This one didn't come with the usual pieces of carrot and potato.



I selected Arrachera, accompanied by frijoles, cebollitas a grilled pad of nopal, and some very picante guacamole. A close examination of that innocent looking green stuff revealed tiny dice of chile perón. Next time, I'll order it con poco chile.

The arrachera was tender, delicious, and perfectly seasoned.
There was a small cazuela of arroz to the side. It was enough to share.



So, it was a very good meal in a pleasant setting at a very reasonable price.

Our bill averaged out to $126 MXN per person. Note that we didn't have any alcoholic beverages.

Ratings
Food: 4 ****
Service: 4 ****
Price: $$
Ambiance: relaxed
Restrooms: Very clean

Saturday, January 23, 2010

Hamburguesas Richard's Morelia

Last Thursday night, we made another visit to the delightful Hamburguesas Richard's in Morelia Centro. I just searched my blog's archives, and I was very surprised that I'd never written about this before.

Hamburguesas Richard's serves what I consider the best hamburgers in Morelia. The French fried potatoes are exemplary. There are also Tacos Al Pastor and Hot Dogs, but in my opinion, the hamburgers and fries rule.

There are three locations: the main one, at Morelos Sur # 398, a few blocks south of Av Madero and close to the corner of Aldama; another, not far away, at Virrey de Mendoza # 434, corner of Ortega y Montañez; and a small branch, just off Av Madero Poniente, at Francisco Zarco # 32.


UPDATE: The Fco. Zarco location is closed, or at least, unlisted on the poster on the wall of the main restaurant. The other locations are closed on Tuesdays. Carne al pastor is available only on weekends.
A sencilla is $22 pesos, a doble carne is $26, as is a Hamburguesa al Pastor. Refrescos are $11.

Morelos Sur #398, Centro, Morelia 

Of those, we've eaten numerous times at the Morelos main restaurant, once at the Francisco Zarco branch, and so far, never at the Virrey de Mendoza restaurant. I greatly prefer the main, Morelos restaurant over the F. Zarco one. Although the Morelos location opens at 1 p.m (I'm not swearing that. It might open at 6 p.m and close about 1 a.m.), go after 7 p.m. for the energy buzz, and you can other watch interesting customers.

The Morelos location is a long hall, the tables and chairs, in Ketchup Red and Mustard Yellow colors. When you enter, you'll see the Carne Al Pastor machine. Keep walking and you come to the hamburger grill. This is The Source.

Los Reyes de la Plancha
At the far end of the line sits a cashier. Read the short menu and give her your order. There are soft drinks and horchata available. This is a mildly sweet, milky white cold drink based on rice and lightly tinged with cinnamon. I recommend it.

The hamburgers come already dressed with ketchup, so if you want something else, ask them to make it "sin catsup". They also have a yellow, American-type cheese. That can be eliminated on request. Sometimes the cheese is a stringy, mozzarella like cheese, perhaps a type of queso Oaxaca.


The burgers themselves are not huge nor thick, but they are as close to a good American type burger as we've had in Mexico. Want more? Order a Doble Carne.


The triad of burger, fries and horchata

The sandwiches come with a small side plate of grilled onions and chiles toreados. The latter are very picante, fresh chiles serranos given a couple of turns on the grill. They are tasty, but I advise extreme caution. Adult supervision required. These are not toys, amigos!

Be sure to order Papas Fritas Francesas. Richard's makes their own, from fresh cut potatoes, and the servings are generous. They are not cooked to golden brown, so if you prefer that, ask for them "muy bien doradas."

Service is a bit irregular yet cheerful. Sometimes our orders go astray, and we have to inquire about them. They will be cheerfully fulfilled, lo más pronto posible. (As soon as possible.)

UPDATE: There is now a dining room service person to expedite things.

On an earlier visit, I tried a couple of different things, both in the interests of research and for the benefit of my readers.
The first was a Hamburguesa con Carne Pastor. It sounds a bit odd, but it's delicious, and the contrast of the tender and juicy hamburger patty with the crisp, pleasantly chewy morsels of pastor meat was pleasant.
Illustrated below.




The second was the alluring Hot Dog Richard's. Visually, these are real beauties, first as the bacon wrapped dogs slowly grill to crusty goodness, then, as they are nestled into butter (?) toasted buns, and dressed with vivid and fresh condiments. The eating reality is a little disappointing.






The sausages themselves are very soft and the flavor mild and indistinctive. It has been said that Mexican Hot dogs are "all about the condiments", and that is very true at Richard's. I'm not saying that they are bad; it's just that the hamburgers have more character and taste.

Hamburguesa's Richard's is the place to go when you are tired of tacos, aburrido de burritos, and are suffering enchilada ennui. Menu photo below.




Here's my star ratings:
Food: 5*****
Service: 3***
Price: $ barato
Rest rooms: clean